Home and Away: Tour de Scotland

This year, during our summer trip home to the UK, we decided to take a driving tour around Scotland. It was probably one of the most scenic road trips I've ever taken.

We started our trip with a drive up to the Glencoe area, a filming location for Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban.
More famously (at least locally), this was the site of the Glencoe Massacre (Ghlinne Comhann) of 1692. Thanks to our 5.99 gift-shop Songs of Scotland CD, we know all about this tragedy, and we sang the Glencoe Massacre song and "other hits" for much of our trip. If you have no interest in history, you can skip this bit...

Following the Jacobite rising, King William offered the Highland clans a pardon, if they swore allegiance by December 31st, 1691. Due to travel distance and weather (and having waited for the "okay" from the exiled King James), Maclain, the chief of the McDonalds of Glencoe, did not arrive to sign allegiance until January 6th. Although late, he was assured that his oath was accepted and all was well. However, this gave the throne the perfect opportunity to make an example out of one of the Highland clans. Troops arrived at Glencoe in February, under amicable pretense. They were offered lodging and were given food, drink and merriment for ten days. When the food, drink, and merriment ran out, the troops turned on the McDonalds, committing "murder under trust", the worst kind of assault by guests who had accepted their hospitality. Men, women and children fled their homes in the glen and headed for the mountains. Many of those who were not killed died of exposure as their homes burned. Much of Scotland's history goes something like this.

We drove up through Glasgow and landed at our B&B, Tigh na Eilidh, on Loch Linnhe in the village of Duror. (http://tighnaeilidh.co.uk/). This accommodation was far less expensive than any nearby hotels and the host made a delicious full Scottish breakfast.

View from B&B gardens

That evening, we ate at the Holly Tree Hotel on the coast. The food was okay, but the views were pretty. Walking out onto the pier, we saw lots of jellyfish.

Such clear water!

Built in 1320, Castle Stalker has an extensive history of battles, murder, kings and lords, as does many a castle. I think the most interesting fact is that it was once passed into new hands (the Campbells) by way of a wager - it was exchanged for an eight-oared wherry. Someone got a good deal.

Castle Stalker can be found at Appin, a quaint little village on Loch Laich. The castle is privately owned, but you can book a private tour, or simply walk the Jubilee Bridge across the loch for a good viewpoint.

Marshy loch

The bridge takes you over farmland to the village of Appin

There are opportunities to leave the trail and take a wooded hike

We did spend some time walking around the area and taking photos of Castle Stalker, but the reality is that there are castles everywhere in Scotland and it was impossible to explore all the castles on our route. It seems like everywhere you turn, there are castles, all in various states of repair. Some are in ruins, while others are very elaborate, renovated tourist attractions.

On our way back from Appin, we stopped by Ballachulish; the closest village to our B&B. Ballachulish is a smallish village, on Loch Leven to the west of Glencoe. We spent some time walking around the old quarry and stopped for some afternoon tea in the Quarry Cafe.

Sadly, the quarry photos were mysteriously deleted from Andrew's camera so I had to borrow these photos from TripAdvisor. Here is Ballachulish and the quarry.

The Quarry Cafe has delicious cakes and treats!

Finn developed her love of apples on this trip.

That afternoon, we took a drive around Glencoe and through Glen Etive. It's hard to imagine a more beautiful, undisturbed and wild place. Every turn reveals a hidden waterfall or trickling stream with the greenest vegetation you've ever seen. The tops of mountains are snow capped, or hidden in mist, and the valleys seems to go on forever. I got goose bumps several times on this drive and wished we had a better camera!

The narrow road follows the contours of the mountains and it can be difficult to drive safely and admire the scenery at the same time. Luckily traffic was not heavy.

Roe Deer

The road through Glen Etive meanders to the head of Loch Etive, which is really an outlet to the sea.

The roads are very quiet this far down towards the coastline and it feels like very unexplored territory. It was very windy and the water very choppy.

Another benefit of using B&B accommodation is that your host is likely a local who can direct you to the local good eats. We found this great little Indian restaurant in Fort William, to end our day.

I have wanted to visit the Isle of Iona for quite some time, but we would not get the chance on this trip. Iona is accessible only by pedestrian ferry from Fionphort, which is only accessible from the west coast of the Isle of Mull, which is only accessible by long drive, or car ferry from Oban or Lochaline. In short, it is a pain to get to and involves an entire day. There is just too much to do and we had little time if we were to move on with our tour. I will get to Iona next time!

I still wanted to get out onto the ocean and see some islands, so we booked a wildlife tour on a smallish fishing boat from Clachan-Seil. Dave the skipper, a marine biologist, was our host. I think we got some funny looks from the other folk when we brought a baby on board. However, Dave assured us he had an infant life vest/boat, and Finley seemed to enjoy all the excitement. We also got to hang out in the cabin when it got cold.

Finn liked helping with the binoculars and camera.

Mary got to drive the boat

Looking for Sea Eagles as an indicator of porpoise activity

On our tour, we spotted porpoise feeding on shoals of fish, seals basking on the shore and playing in the water around our boat, sea eagles (nest and baby), roe deer on the banks, and otters.

The boat trip included going over and around the Corryvreckan Whirlpool. As the tide flows through between the islands Jura and Scarba, it picks up a lot of speed and activity from beneath creates a whirlpool.

12 foot waves over the Corryvrechan Whirlpool were fun!

Hanging out on the Isle of Seil after the boat trip

Clachan Bridge

Cute little honor-system postcard and sweet shop

Hungry, we headed back through Oban, walked the town and grabbed some fish and chips.

We had some time before dark so on our drive back we took a detour to Dunstaffnage Castle, about 3 miles northeast of Oban. The walk to the castle ruins is quite nice. On one side, the Firth of Lorn, on the other, a magical wooded area great for kids to run around.

The woods were filled with stick houses and draped yarns.

Fairy garden or Blair Witch Project, depending on your take.

Dunstaffnage was built on a huge rock in 1275 and was the stronghold of the MacDougalls.
I recommend visiting castle ruins, rather than "functional" castles with tea rooms and toilets. Typically, there is no entrance fee, little to no other people, and they're just more authentic and interesting. Having said that, you can pay a fee to enter Dunstaffnage, we were just too late in the day.

Our drive home took us back on the A85, along Ardmucknish Bay and the northwestern edge of Loch Etive. We made a quick stop at Ardchattan Priory Garden then headed back.

Back at the B & B, we decided to take a walk along the beach of Loch Linnhe. We could barely make out the mountains for the mist.

We also spent an hour visiting a rock and gem "museum". We probably wouldn't recommend spending the money to get in this place, unless you have younger kids who are amazed by shiny rocks and gems. Although, it is a pretty cool old church building.